Sewing-machine



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No. 6l3,472. Patented Nov. l, I898. F. H. RICHARDS. SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Sept. 8, 1896. Renewed Apr. 18, 1898.)

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No. 613,472. Pa tented Nov. I, I898.

F. H. RICHARDS.. SEWING MACHINE. (Application filed Sept. 8, 1896. Renewed Apr. 13, 1898.) (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 4.

. I ra- -J-s 5 f M QM A! No. 6l3,472. Patented Nov. I, I898.

. F. H. RICHARDS.

SEWING MACHINE. (Application filed Spt. 8, 1896. Renewed Apr. 13, 1898.)

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, OFYHARTFORD, CONNECTICUT:

SEWING-MACHINE;

srnorrronr'r'on forming part of Letters Patent No. eiaevadatd november 1, 1898.

Application filed September 8, 1896. Renewed April 13, 1898-. Serial ITo. 677,522. (No inodeh) To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, FRANCIS H. RICHARDS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Hartford, in the'county of Hartford and State of Oonnecticut,'have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-lvlachin'es, of which the following is a specification.

. This invention relates to sewing-machines, the object beingto provide a machine having improved mechanism operable to produce a double sea-m by means of an improved stitch.

Afurther object of the invention is to provide an improved sewing-machine in which the stitch-forming mechanism comprises an oscillatory or laterally swinging and reciprocatory needle mechanism and a rotatable looper mechanism operable in a plane transversely of the plane of oscillation of the needle mechanism.

A further object of the invention is to construct a sewing-machine provided with an improved looper mechanism having a series of loop-takers, such series comprising a plurality of sets of oppositely-disposed loop-takers, one set operative with the needle when the same is at one side of the looper adjacent to such hooks and the other setoperative therewith when the same is at the other side of said looper.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved rotatable loop-taker hav' ing two sets of oppositely disposed looptakers all operating in the same direction and operative in connection with an oscillatory or laterally swingingand reciprooatory needle, whereby a thread-loop will be engaged by one loop-taker at one side thereof when the needle is at that side adjacent thereto and carried entirely around the same to engage a thread-loop of the same needle when said needle is at the opposite side of said looper, to thereby form a double seam of one continuous thread in which the fabric will have on one or the upper side thereof a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed single stitches, each 7 of which is of equal length, whereby the .strain throughout the series will be equalized and the ends of which stitches extend through the fabric to form on the 0pposite side thereof two series of diagonally 0r obliquely disposed stitches, each of which consists of a double thread forming aloop,

said loops extending in opposite directions, and thereby alternating with each other, and each alternating loop extending through its companion loop.

In the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a plan view of one construction of this machine, a part thereof being broken away, said view also showing a piece of work with this improved double seam. Fig. 2 is a front view thereof, partly broken away and partly in section. Fig. 3 is an end view of the machine, looking toward the right of Fig. 2. Fig. lis an opposite end view of the machine, looking toward the left of Fig. 2, partly broken away and partly in section. Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view of a portion of the bed-plate, the feed, looper, and needle-actuating mechanisms. Fig. 6 is a side view of the presserfoot detached. Fig. 7 is a top view of the same, the bar thereof being shown in horizontal section, and said view also showing a piece of fabric clamped in position. Fig. 8 is a front view of the presser-foot, the bar thereof being broken off. Fig. 9 is a top side view of a piece of work with this improved stitch, said view also showing a cord locked underneath the zigzag threads. Fig. 10 is an under side view of the same, showing the diagonally-disposed loops. Fig. 11 is a front View of the needle in the position it assumes when at one side of the looper and partly withdrawn from the fabric to form a loop.

Fig. 12 is also a front view of the same, but

at the opposite side of the looper, the needle ascending to form a loop. Fig. 13 is a rear View of a part of the needle, showing the oppositely-disposed guide-grooves for the thread. Fig. 14 is a diagrammatic View illustrating the path of the needle during its lateral movements and also illustrating a plan of the cam for oscillating the needle; and Figs. 15 to 26, inclusive, are a series of detail views illustrating the various positions of the needle and looper and the manner of forming this improved seam and stitch.

Similar characters designate like parts in all the figures of the drawings.

As a preface to a description of this'improved sewing-machine it will be understood that while it is shown adapted to form a chainstitch it may also be used, if desired, to form a lock chain-stitch by employing a rotatable shuttle or looper carrying a bobbin, and it will also be understood that the supporting parts and minor details of mechanism of this improved machine may be widely varied without departing from the scope of this invention.

This improved sewing-machine comprises in a general way needle mechanism (designated generally by A) embodying a reciprocatory and oscillatory or laterally swinging needle, looper mechanism (designated in a general way by B) embodying a series of sets of loop-takers, and which needle mechanism and looper mechanism combined constitute stitch-forming mechanism (designated in a general way by having or embodying means for actuating the same, and feed mechanism (designated in a general way by'D) likewise having orembodying suitable means for actuating and adjusting the same.

The framework of the machine,which may be of any suitable construction adapted for the purpose, is herein shown, however, in its preferred form, comprising a horizontal bedplate 2, having a series of three downwardlyextcnding brackets 3, at, and for supporting the mechanisms hereinafter set forth; a removable throat-plate 7 at one end thereof; an upright support 8 at the opposite end thereof, and ahorizontal support 9, joined thereto, said supports 8 and 9 forming the arm 10 of the machine,which is herein shown as a skeleton arm, having at the outer end thereof the machine-head 11, disposed in vertical alinement with the throat-plate 7.

The needle mechanism A, which forms a part of the stitch-forming mechanism 0, in its preferred construction herein shown and described comprises a reciprocatory needlebar 15, adapted to receivea needle, as 0;,wl1ich may be secured thereto in any suitable way, such as by a clamping device 17, and which needle-bar is mounted for reciprocation in suitable bearings of a needle-bar carrier 18, pivotally secured to the machine for oscillation or lateral swinging movement. For this purpose the machine-head 11 is shown provided with two preferably bifurcated brackets or extensions 19 and 20, one extending from the under side of the arm 10 and the other extending above the same.

Pivotally secured intermediate the sides of the bifurcated bracket 19 is the needle-bar carrier 18, the same being secured in position by suitable pivotal means, such as pivotscrews 21, extending through the sides of said bracket. The lower bifurcated bracket 20 forms a guide for the lower portion of the needle-bar carrier 18 during its swinging movement and by means of which lateral movement of said carrier, except in the direction of its desired oscillation, is absolutely prevented. The upper end of the reciprocatory needle-bar is preferably provided with a suitable thread-take-up device, herein shown as a downwardly-extending arm 21, having a thread-receiving loop 22 at its free end.

As one means for reciprocating the needlebar 15 and for oscillating the needle-bar carrier 18 to thereby oscillate or swing the needle first to one side and then to the other of the loop-taker during its reciprocations, and which means may constitute a part of the needle mechanism, if desired, and therefore a part of the stitch-forming mechanism, said needle-bar 15 and needle-bar carrier 18 are connected with actuating means, shown herein as comprising cam members and actuatinglevers, although other means might be employed in place of the cam members. In the form shown the cam members, which preferably comprise two independent cams a and I), having cam-grooves c and d, are mounted on a shaft 23, journaled for rotation in suitable bearings 24 and 25 of the framework and herein shown adapted to receive motion from the usual driving-pulley 25 and handle-wheel 26, disposed on the outer end of the shaft 23, and whereby said shaft 23 in this form of structure constitutes the main shaft of the machine. Each member a and Z2 is rotatively adjustable on said shaft 23 and is secured in position by means of clamping devices, such as screws 27.

In order to reciprocate the needle-bar15, a lever in the nature of a bell-crank lever 29, having arms and 31, is pivotally secured to a stud 28, carried by the arm 10, and is operatively connected with the needle-bar and one cam member to thereby impart reciprocatory motion to the needle, and for this purpose the arm 31 has its outer end provided with a slot 31, in which a sliding block 31, pivotally secured to the needle-bar by a suitable pivot device or stud 32,slides, the needlebar carrier being provided with an elongated slot 33, through which said stud passes and in which it travels during the reciprocations of said needle-bar. The lower end of arm 30 of said lever 29 has an antifriction bearing or roll 34, working in the groove 0 of the cam member a, and which groove is so formed that on the rotation of said cam member the needle will be reciprocated by the oscillatory bell-crank lever 29 in a manner that will be readily understood.

In order to oscillate or swing the needle from one side of the looper to the other, whereby the loop-takers of each set thereof will alternately engage the needle-thread to carry the loops thereof around the looper, and thus form the double seam, lever mechanism 35, comprising a link 30 and a lever 37, is (lisposed in position to have the outer end of the link 36 pivotally secured intermediate the brackets 19 and 20 of the machine-head 11 by means of a pivot device, such as a screw 38, to an extension 39 of the needle-bar carrier 18, the inner end of said link 30 being pivotally connected to the upper end of the downwardly-extending lever 37, which in turn is pivotally secured intermediate its ends to a part of the arm 10 of the machine by means of a stud 40, which extends through ahub 41 of said lever 37, the lower end of said lever being provided with a suitable hearing or roll 42, working in the groove d of the cam member b, which groove is so formed that on the rotation of the cam the needle will be swung at certain predetermined periods in its reciprocatory' movements from side to side of the looper in a manner hereinafter more fully set forth.

In the construction shown the lever 29 is preferably disposed at one side of the machine-arm, while the lever mechanism 35 is disposed at the opposite side thereof, whereby each will be perfectly free for operation.

Mounted within the machine-head 11 in any desired way is a presser-foot or fabric-clamp 45, which may of course be of any desired construction. In the form of machine shown the bracket 20 has secured at one side thereof a longitudinally-bored bracket 46, within the bore of which the presser-foot bar 47 is adapted to move, and which bar carries aflange or collar 48, intermediate of which and the end of an exteri'orly-threaded nut 49, screwed into the upper end of said bore, is a spiral spring 50, encircling the presser-bar for clamping and holding the presser-foot in engagement with the fabric in the usual way. This nut 49 is adjustable to regulate the tension of the spring and is provided with a knurled head to permit its ready manipulation. Secured to the presser-bar by means of a stud or pin 51, extending through a slot 52 in the bracket 46, is a cam-lever 53, engaging a cam-face 54 formed on said bracket, and by means of which the presser-foot is raised and lowered in the well-known manner.

The presser-foot 45, which maybe removably secured to the presser-bar 47 in any desired way, is preferably somewhat wider than the usual presser-foot of the ordinary machines and is provided with a transverse slot 56, Fig. 7, which extends through the presserfoot and is of a length sufficient to permit the needle to form the proper length of stitch when it swings from side to side of the looper. In one construction of this presser-footthe same is provided with a longitudinal groove 57 on its under side, communicating with and preferably extending slightly past the transverse slot 56. Secured to the outer end of the presser-foot, either removably or not, as desired, and working in this longitudinal groove 57 is a spring clamp or tongue 58, adapted to bear on the fabric, the outer end thereof intersecting the transverse slot 56 and forming a bearing for the thread to run over to thus make a loose seam and at the same.

time provide a metal surface properly rounded for the thread to draw over, and thus reduce the friction of the thread in the cloth, the

point of such tongue drawing out from under the stitch as the cloth feeds in a manner that will be readily understood. The tongue when it is desired to have the stitch extend across or lock a braid or cord, Fig. 9, may be provided with a groove 59 on its under side or face, triangular or otherwise, as desired, whereby it will serve as a guide for such cord. In the construction shown this tongue is riveted in position; but it will be understood that the same could be removably secured in position, as above stated, if desired.

The looper mechanism B, which is somewhat similar in operation to that set forth in my application for a patent filed September 5, 1896, Serial No. 604,993, and substantially similar in construction to the looper set forth in my application for a patent filed September 17,1896, Serial No. 606,103, in its preferred construction shown comprises a diskshaped member 60, having adjacent to its periphery a series of loop-takers, preferably in the nature of hooks 61, for engaging the loops of the needle-thread, and is supported below the bed or throat'plate in any desired manner for rotary movement. In the form shown, however, this improved looper is peripherally supported for rotary movement by a series of rolls 62, herein illustrated as six in number, rotatably mounted upon adjustable roll-carriers 63, which comprise studs having eccentrically-disposed shanks 64 extending through transverse recesses in the bracket 3 and provided'with nuts 65 at the ends thereof, by means of which said studs are adjustably secured to the bracket, and whereby also the positions of the rolls may be changed relatively to the periphery of the looper which they support. The supportingrolls may be of duplicate construction and interchangeable one with the other and will in practice preferably be so disposed relatively to the periphery of the looper that at no time in the rotation thereof will all the loop-takers or hooks 61 be contiguous to all of such rolls and also so disposed as to per mit a clear unobstructed space at the upper edge ofv the looper, adjacent to the throatplate, in a manner that will be clearly understood on inspection of the drawings. These supporting-rolls will in practice be peripherally grooved to receive and engage the pe ripheral track of the looper 60, which will be preferably wedge-shaped in cross-section.

The looper 60 is provided, as above stated, with a series of loop-takers 61 for engaging the needle-thread, and which in the preferred form shown comprises a series of hooks formed in the periphery thereof, and which series of hooks comprehends two sets m and n, each set comprising three hooks, as m, m and m and 01, M, and of, and disposed one set on each side of the peripheral line of the looper, whereby they will diverge in opposite ative alternately with each other, and all of said hooks being operative in the same direction, as hereinafter more fully set forth. In the present construction these loop-takers or hooks 61 are formed by recesses or spaces 07 and 67, extending transversely through the looper adjacent to the track portion thereof, and each pair of hooks of the series having its loop-engaging faces or points extending in opposite directions-that is to say, the hook m, formed by one recess, as 67, will have its loop-engaging face or point adjacent to one side of the peripheral line of the looper, while its companion hook, as if, formed bya similar recess, as 67, will have its loop-engaging face or point adjacent to the opposite side of the peripheral line of the looper, whereby all the hooks of the series 61 will have their loop-engaging faces or points alternately extending in opposite directions relatively to the peripheral line of the looper, so that when the looper and needle are in position the needle during its reciprocation at one side of the looper will operate with one set of hooks, as m, and during its movement at the opposite side of said looper will operate in connection with the other or opposite set of hooks, as 12 all the hooks of both sets thereof always working in the same direction. It will be understood that if it should be desired to form a lock chain-stitch a looper or shuttle adapted to receive a bobbin may be used, as hereinbefore set forth. As one means for imparting rotary movement to said looper, and which may constitute, if desired, a part of the looper mechanism, and therefore preferably form a part of the actuating means for the stitch-forming mechanism, said looper is shown provided with a series of three transversely-extending apertures forming driver-sockets 68, disposed equidistantly apart, and which may or may not extend entirely through the same, according to the width and construction of looper used, and which sockets are adapted to receive laterally-extending driving-pins 70, carried by radial arms 70 of a driver 71, which driver is herein shown disposed in a plane oblique to the plane of rotation of the looper and is carried on the outer end of ashaft 72, journaled for rotation at one end in a bearing 73 of the bracket 3 and at its opposite end in a bearing 74 of the bracket 4, such driving-pins 70 being adapted to engage successively in the driver-sockets 68, to thereby rotate the looper on the rotation of the shaft in a similar manner to that heretofore set forth in my Patent No. 571,457, dated November 17, 1890. It will be understood, however, that instead of disposing the driver in a plane obliquely to the plane of rotation of the looper such looper may be disposed in a plane oblique to the plane of rotation of the driver in a similar manner to that set forth in my application, Serial No. 536,338, filed January 26, 18%.

The feed mechanism in its preferred form comprises the feed-dog 80, which may be of any suitable structure, having an upper serrated side 81, extending through recesses or slots in the throat-plate 7, and rcmovably secured in any desired way to a feed-dog carrier or lever 82, pivotally mounted for vertical and horizontal oscillation on the under side of the bed-plate 2 in any preferred way. In the structure shown, however, the bed-plate 2 is provided with an opening 82, through which a hanger or projection 83 of a bracketplate 84 extends, said plate being secured by fastening devices 83 to the upper side ofthe bed-plate 2. Pivotally secured for vertical oscillation to the hanger S3 of this bracketplate 84 is a downwardly-extending bracket 85, to the free end of which is secured, by means of a pivot, stud, or bolt 86, the feedlever 82, whereby it is adapted for horizontal oscillation.

Secured by pivotal means to one end of the feed-dog and to the under side of the bcdplate 2 is a link 80, which extends in parallelism with the feed-dog lever 82 and is adapted to maintain the feed-dog in substantial parallelism with the line of its longitudinal movement, these parts being fully shown and described in my Patent No. 574,574, dated January 5, 1807.

The feed-actuating'mcans in one preferred form thereof shown preferably embodies a part of the main shaft 23, carrying the cam members a and b, and for this purpose said shaft is preferably of differential diameters, and is herein shown having a bored end for the reception of a supplemental shaft 91, which is splined therein for longitudinal adjustment, but is secured against independent rotary movement. This supplemental shaft 91 is provided with an enlarged head or block 92, having an exterior annular groove 93 and an interior inclined eccentrically disposed bore 94. Fitted for adjustment within this inclined bore 94: is a sliding member 95,for1ned by two separable members 96 and 97, each of which is provided with a semicircular recess, which when in position relatively to each other form a socket 98 for the reception of a spherical end 99 of the feed-lever 82, whereby 011 the rotation of the shaft 23 the feed-dog is given its vertical and horizontal oscillations in an elliptical path in a manner that will be readily understood. The sliding member is shown having a flaring month 100, communicating with its socket 98, whereby the feeddog lever 82, which is reduced at this point, will not be retarded in its movements.

As one means for adjusting the feed-dog lever and thereby the feed-dog to increase or decrease its effective throw, and thus regulate its feed, an adjustable member 101, having bifurcated arms 102, engaging the exterior groove 93 of the block 92, is adjustably secured to the under side of the bed-plate 2, and is herein shown adapted to slide in a way formed by a recess 103 on the under side of said plate. Fixedly secured to this member 101 and extending through an elongated slot 104 of the bed-plate 2 is a threaded stud 105, having a clamp-nut 106 thereon, a washer 107 being interposed between the under side of said clamp-nut and the upper side of said bed-plate. On the adjustment of the member 101 by means of the clamp-nut 106 the supplemental shaft 91 and its block 92 will be moved longitudinally relatively to the feedlever and the shaft 23, to thereby increase or decrease the eccentricity of the two-part member 95, supported in the inclined bore thereof, and thus regulate the feed of the feed-dog.

One means for rotating the looper and actuating the feed-lever and its feed-dog comprises a train of intermeshing gears 110 and 111, one of which, as 110, being fixedly mounted on the main shaft 23 and secured against longitudinal movement in any suitable way, as by forming a hub 112 thereon, whereby it is adapted to engage one face of the bracket 4, and whichgear meshes with a gear 111,

fixedly secured to the looper-shaft 72, and

which is likewise provided with a hub 113, engaging one face of the bracket 4 for preventing longitudinal movement thereof. The gear 110 in this structure of machine has twenty-eight teeth, while the gear 111 has forty-two teeth, thus causing the looper-shaft and the looper to make two-thirds of a rotation to every complete rotation of the shaft 23, while the feed-dog is actuated to make one complete feed of the fabric.

In order to permit the needle to have the desired lateral or oscillatory movement in a plane transversely of the plane of rotation of the looper and at the proper time during its reciprocatory movement, the cam member 17 is shown having its groove 61 at each side thereof forming straight grooves e and f, connected by two oppositely-inclined grooves g and h, whereby when the lower end of the lever 53 is working in the straight groove 6 or f the needle will be permitted to reciprocate without lateral movement and will be swung from side to side of thelooper simul* taneously with a part of its reciprocative movement when the end of the lever is workin g in the inclined portions 9 or h of said camgroove. In order, however, to swing the needle at the proper period in its reciprocation, the cam member b is shown mounted on and fixedly secured to the hub or sleeve 114 of a gear 115, which gear 115 is, however, loosely mounted on the shaft 23 for independent rotation and meshes with a gear 116,

fixedly secured to the looper-shaft 72 in any desired way, such as by a screw 117, extending into the outer end of the shaft. The gear 115 in this preferred construction has forty teeth,while the gear 116, mounted on the shaft 72, which makes two-thirds of a rotation to each complete rotation of the main shaft 23, has butthirty teeth, whereby the cam member 19 will make one-half of a rotation to each complete rotation of the shaft 23, thus swinging the needle gradually to the opposite side of the looper after the same has moved upward out of the cloth and above the presserfeet in a manner that will be readily understood.

From an inspection of Fig. 14 it will be seen that when the needle is in the position marked 1 and is ascending the lower end of the lever 37 of the needle-bar-carrier-actuating lever mechanism 35 is working in the straight groove 6 of the cam member I) and is at the point also marked 1. When the needle has ascended to the point marked 3, the cam has moved relatively to the lever to the point also marked 3 and is about to have the inclined walls of the groove 9 engage said lever, to

thereby gradually swing the needle toward the opposite side of the looper, and when the cam has been actuated to bring the groove g to the point marked 4 in'the plan View of the cam the needle has reached the highest point, as 4, in its ascent and has been moved laterally, whereby its point will be in alinement with the peripheral line of the looper, and when the cam has been actuated to the point 5 the needle has been swung to the opposite side of the looper and descended to the point also marked 5, and when the cam has been actuated to bring its groove g to the point marked 7 the needle has completely descend ed to the point also marked 7 and is about to commence its reascent, which reverse movement is indicated in the plan view of the cam and the view illustrating the path of the needle by the characters 1 2 3 4, be.

From the above it will be seen that the looper makes one and one-third of a rotation to each two rotations of the main shaft 23, while the feed-dog is actuated twice, thus feeding the fabric once for each two-thirds of a rotation of the looper, or, in other words, at each one-half of a rotation of the main shaft and cam member a the looper' will be actuated one-third of a rotation, for the pur pose'hereinafter set forth. Hence at each complete rotation of the main shaft and twothirds of a rotation of the looper the needle is moved upward, swung to the opposite side of said looper, and then moved downward into position to operate with the hook at that side of said looper, and on the next complete rotation of the main shaft and two-thirds of a rotation of the looper it is again moved up ward, swung back, and then downward to operate with a hook at the opposite side of said looper.

The needle-thread 120 is shown carried by a spool disposed on a spindle 121, carried by the arm 10-. As a means for guiding the thread from the spool a guide device, herein shown in the nature of a bar 122, having an eye at its end, through which the thread runs, is disposed von the arm 10 adjacent to the spool. A suitable tension deviceis provided for the thread, and in the structure shown it preferably comprises a pair of clamp plates or disks 123, adjustably secured on the end of a spindle 124 by a nut 125, and between which the thread passes, atension-spring 126 being interposed between one of said disks and a plate 127, carried by said spindle 124:.

In View of the fact that the same needle operates at both sides of the looper it is therefore necessary that the loop formed by the ascending movement of the needle be always adjacent to that side of the looper which carries the working hook. Hence if the needle is disposed in the needle bar to have the thread thereof on the inner side of the needle when said needle is at one side of the looper such thread would necessarily be on the outer side of the needle when swung to the opposite side of the looper, whereby the needle would be between the thread and the looper, so that the hook of the looper could not e11- gage a loop. Therefore in order to permit the loop to be always formed adjacent to the looper, and thereby permit both sets of hooks to operate with the needle at the proper time, said needle, which is preferably provided on one side thereof with a thread groove 130, Figs. 11 and 12, running lengthwise of the same, whereby the chafing of the thread on its passage through the fabric is prevented, is so disposed in the needle-bar 15 that the plane of rotation of the looper will be in parallelism with the plane of depth of said groove 130, whereby the thread will always be at the same distance from the looper, regardless of the particular side thereof at which the needle may be operating, the thread being guided into such central position relatively to the needle by a pair of guides 133 and 135, one, as 133, being preferably disposed on the bracket 20 and in alinement with the peripheral line of the looper and the other, as 135, preferably disposed on the needle-bar and in alinement with the longitudinal groove 130. In order, however, that the thread may be guided toward the particular side of the looper at which the needle is operating, said needle is provided on the opposite side thereof from the groove 130 with a pair of oppositely-inclined grooves 131 and 132, which communicate with the needle-eye 132', so that when the needle-thread during the lateral movement of the needle is drawn toward that side of said needle which is nearest to the looper it will be guided by its respective inclined groove to permit the proper formation of a loop, this result being secured owing to the fact that as the needle, after the formation of a stitch, moves to the opposite side of the looper, and thus across the fabric, the thread, which is held at one end by said fabric and at one side of the looper, has its other or loop-forming end necessarily drawn toward the inner side of the needle nearest to the working side of the looper and thus into its proper inclined groove, to thereby permit the formation of the loop on the upward movement of said needle in the usual manner. This formation of the loop at the inner side of the needle is also somewhat assisted by the oblique movements of said needle at certain periods in its reciprocation, Figs. 2, 11,

and 12, and which oblique movements take place when said needle is going into and out of the fabric and while the lower end of the lever 37 is working in the straight grooves e and fof the cam member I). This inclination of movement of the needle also permits a wider looper to be used, if desired.

It will be understood that in practice other suitable means might be used for rotating the looper and for actuating the needle and that other feed mechanism might also be used, if desired.

In the operation of this improved sewingmachine, in order to form the particular character of stitch herein setforth, motion having been imparted to the driving-pulley 25 from any suitable source of power, the needle no will be caused to descend at one side of the looper, carrying with it the thread 120 through the fabric 150, which on the inauguration of the upward movement of the needle forms a loop 160, Figs. 2 and 11, and which loop 160 will be taken by one of the hooksfor instance, as m of the set m, Figs. 15, 16, and 17-and carried completely around the looper, which is moving in the direction of the arrow, for the purpose of having a loop from the same needle, when at the opposite side of the looper, carried therethrough. \Vhen, however, the first loop has been carried substantially one-third way around the looper, Figs. 18, 19, and 20, the needle 0: has completely ascended and has been moved laterall y toward the opposite side of the looper, and during which lateral movement the feed of the fabric takes place, during which feed a pair of hooks of the looper, as m and a are skipped, as the needle is not in position to have such hooks engage its thread. \Vhen the hook m has been moved substantially two-thirds way around, Figs. 21, 22, and 23, the needle has redescended on the opposite side of the looper and commenced its return movement, thereby forming a loop 161, Fig. 12, which loop is taken by a hook, as n, of the opposite set of loop-takers n and which also carries the same entirely around the looper or shuttle. \Vhen such hook, as n, has been rotated one-third way around, however, with the second loop of the series, Figs. 24-, 25, and 26, the first hook m of the first set an has made one complete rotation, its loop being withdrawn therefrom and taken up close to the fabric by the movement of the looper in lengthening out the second loop of the series in the usual manner, to thereby form the stitch, said hook m and its companion hook n being skipped in a similar manner to that set forth in connection with the hooks m and H and during which time the needle has ascended and moved laterally toward the opposite or first side of the looper, while the feed is taking place in a similar manner to that above set forth. \Vhen the hook n has carried the second loop substantially two-thirds way around, the needle has completely descended on the first side of said looper and has commenced its return, thereby forming a loop which will be engaged by the second hook m of the first set on, which when the same has arrived one-third way around the first hook n of the set 'n will have made one complete rotation, its loop being withdrawn in the usual manner and the feed again taking place at this time. Then the hook m has been rotated twothirds way around, the needle has again made a second descent on the second side of the looper and is reascending, thereby forming a loop which will'be engaged by the hook n of the second set at, the hooks n and m having been skipped in the manner above set forth.

When the hook n has carried its loop-onethird wayaround, the hook m of the set m has made a complete rotation and lost its loop, and when the hook n has moved twothirds way around the last hook m of the set m will be in position to engage a loop from the needle which is adjacent to that side of the looper, and when such hook m has also moved two-thirds way around the last hook n of the set it will be in position to engage a loop from the needle which is then on that side of the looper. Thus it will be seen that the same needle, carrying one continuous thread, acts in connection with both sets of hooks of the entire series of six hooks, the hooks of each set, however, acting in alternation with each other, but all working in the same direction, and in this connection it will be seen that the hook of one set is rotated two-thirds way around before a hook of the opposite set engages a loop, whereby a pair of hooks is skipped alternately, and from which it will also be seen that the looper makes one and one-third of a rotation before a hook of the same set at one side thereof again takes a loop. By this improved stitchforming mechanism a double seam is formed of one continuous thread in which the fabric will have on one or the upper side thereof a series of diagonally or obliquely disposed single stitches, each of which is of equal length, whereby the strain throughout the series will be equalized, and the ends of which stitches extend through the fabric to form on the opposite side thereof two series of diagonally or obliquely disposed stitches, each of which consists of a double thread forming a loop, said loops extending in opposite directions, and thereby alternating with each other, and each alternating loop extending through its companion loop, whereby the bight of each loop engages the double thread of its companion loop intermediate of the ends of said companion loop. From the foregoing it will thus be seen that this seam is particularly adapted for use in connection with knitted Wear-such as underskirts, drawers, &c.-in which a comparatively loose seam .is pre ferred and that by the use of I the springtongue 58 a seam of the required looseness can be obtained, it being obvious that various sizes and thicknesses of such tongues could be used with the same machine, if desired.

In the operation of this improved machine it will be noted, in-conclusion, that all the hooks of the series of hooks 61 comprising the two sets m and n operate in the same direction and all in turn alternately engage the thread of the same needle, which swings from side to side in a path transversely of the plane of rotation of the looper and carries one continuous thread, whereby each loop is carried completely around the looper to permit the next loop to be taken therethrough to thus form this improved double seam.

Having described my invention, I claim 1. The combination, with a movable looper having a series of six hooks disposed in sets, one set operative on one side, and the other set on the opposite side, of said looper; of a needle-bar; means for reciprocating and for laterally moving said needle-bar; and means for actuating the looper.

2. The combination, witharotatablelooper having two sets of loop-takers so disposed with relation to the peripheral line of the looper that one set is operative on one side, and the other set on the opposite side, of said looper, of a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle operative with said sets of loop-takers; and means for actuating the needle and looper.

8. The combination, with a rotatable looper having two sets of loop-takers, each set comprising three loop-takers, the loop-takers of one set pointing in one direction and those of the other set in the opposite direction relatively to the sides of the looper, and one looptaker of each setbeing adjacent to the looptaker of the other set; of a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle operative with each set of loop-takers; means for actuating said needle; 7

and means for actuating the looper.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism comprising a rotatable looper having a series of loop-takers embodying two independent sets thereof, all working in the same direction and one set at each side of the peripheral line of the looper; a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle mechanism operative with both sets of loop-takers and actuating means therefor.

5. In asewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism comprisinga rotatable looper having sets of loop-takers oppositely disposed with relation to the periphery thereof and all operative in the same direction; a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle; and actuating means therefor and operable to form a double seam of one continuous thread, in which the fabric will have diagonally or obliquely disposed stitches on the top and bottom thereof.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination, with a rotarylooper mounted in stationary bearings and having two sets of peripheral hooks, each set comprising three hooks, and

one set of hooks pointing in one direction and the other set in the opposite direction relative to the sides of the looper, and one hook of each set being adjacent to a hook of the other set; of a reciprocatory needle-bar; an oscillatory carrier in which said needle-bar is mounted; feed mechanism; and means for actuating the looper, needle-bar, and feed mechanism.

'7. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a looper having two sets of hooks disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof, and all of said hooks having their hook-engaging portions or points projecting in the same direction and disposed in alternation with each other relatively to the peripheral line of the looper; needle mechanism embodying an oscillatory needlebar carrier and a reciprocatory needle-bar; feed mechanism; means for adjusting said feed mechanism; and means for actuating said looper, needle, and feed mechanisms.

8. I11 a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a looper supported for rotation, said looper having a series of hooks comprising two sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction, and each set comprising a plurality of hooks; needle mechanism. comprising a reciprocatory and laterally-movable needle; independent cam members; oscillatory levers operatively connecting said needle mechanism with the cam members, whereby said needle will be reciprocated and swung from side to side of the looper; feed mechanism; and means for actuating said cam members, looper, and feed mechanisms.

9. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a main shaft journaled thereon; a looper supported for rotation, said looper having a series of hooks comprising two sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operative in the same direction; a rotatable shaft carrying means foractuating said looper; needle mechanism comprising a reciproeatory needle-bar and an oscillatory needle-bar carrier; a pair of independent cam members mounted on said main shaft and having cam-grooves; oscillatory levers, one connected with the camgroove of one cam member and the needlebar, and the other connected with the needlebar carrier and the cam-groove of the other cam member, whereby said needle will be reciprocated and oscillated from side to side of the looper; feed mechanism adj ustably connected with the main shaft; and intermeshing gears carried by said main shaft and loopershaft, for imparting motion to said looper mechanism and one of the cam members.

10. In a sewing-machine, the combination of framework; a main shaft journaled thereon; a looper supported for rotation, said looper having a series of hooks comprising two sets disposed at opposite sides of the peripheral line thereof and all operating in the same direction; a rotatable shaft having means foractuating said looper; needle mechanism comprising a reciprocatory needle-bar and an oscillatory needle-bar carrier; a cam member fixedly secured to said main shaft; an oscillatory lever connecting said cam member with the needle-bar, for reciprocating the same; a pair of intermeshing gears carried by the looper-shaft and main shaft and having a ratio whereby the looper will be actuated two-thirds of a rotation at each complete rotation of the main shaft; a second pair of intermeshing gears, one fixedly secured to the looper-shaft and the other loosely mounted on the main shaft; a cam member fixedly se-- cured to the loosely-mounted gear, and said gears having a ratio whereby the cam member will make one-half of a rotation to each complete rotation of the' main shaft; an oscillatory lever connecting said cam member with the needle-bar carrier, whereby the needle will be oscillated from side to side of the looper; and feed mechanism adjustably connected with the main shaft.

11. A presser-foot having a transverse slot and a spring tongue or clamp secured in position 011 the under side of said foot, said tongue or clamp having a longitudinally-extending groove therein whereby it forms a cord-guide.

12. A presser-foot provided with a spring tongue or clamp on its under side, said tongue or clamp having a longitudinally-extending groove therein, wherebyit forms a cord-guide.

13. A presser-foot for a sewing-machine, having a transverse slot; a longitudinal groove on its under side, extending across said slot; and a spring tongue or clamp in said groove, the end of which tongue is rounded and also extends across the slot, said tongue or clamp having a longitudinal groove therein whereby it forms a cord-guide.

14. A presser-foot for a sewing-machine, having a transversely-extending slot and a longitudinally-extending recess on its under side communicating with said slot, and a spring tongue or clamp working in said recess and adapted to engage the fabric and having a longitudinal groove on its under side forming cord-guiding means.

15. The combination of stitch forming mechanism comprising a rotatable looper having loop-takers operative on each side thereof and a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle operable on both sides of said looper; means for actuating the same; and a thread-guide in position to guide the thread centrally of the needle, whereby the same will be at the same distance from the looper at whichever side thereof said needle is working.

16. The combination of stitch forming mechanism comprising a rotatable looper having loop-takers operative on. each side thereof and a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle operable at both sides of said looper and having a pair of oppositely-inclined thread-guide grooves at one side thereof, whereby the thread will be guided toward the inner side of the needle and the Working side of the looper, to thereby permit the proper formation of a loop.

17. In a sewing-machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a rotaiable looper having loop-takers operative on each side thereof; and a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle operable at both sides of said looper and having a longitudinal groove, the depth thereof being in parallelism with the plane of rotation of the looper and also having a pair of oppositely-inclined guidegrooves at the opposite side of said needle,

whereby said thread will be guided toward the inner side of the needle and the working side of the looper, to thereby permit the proper formation of a loop.

18. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a rotatable looper mounted in stationary bearings having a series of hooks divided into two sets, one set upon each side of the periphery of the looper all operativein the same direction; a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle operable at both sides of said looper; means for actuating the same; andapresserfoot fixedly secured against lateralmovement and having a transverse slot therein, to permit said needle to be operative at both sides of the looper.

19. In a sewing-machine; the combination of a rotatable looper having a series of hooks divided into two sets, one set upon each side of the periphery of the looper; a reciprocatory and oscillatory needle; means for actuating the same; and a presser-foot secured again st lateral movement and having a transverse slot adapted to permit the needle to operate at both sides of the looper, said presser= foot having a spring tongue or clamp on its under side and having the endof said tongue or clamp entering said slot, whereby it will form a bearing-surface for the thread when the needle is swung from side to side of the looper;

20. A needle for a sewing-machine, having an eye; and a pair of oppositely-inclined grooves on'one side of said needle, merging in said eye.

21. A needle for a sewing-machine, having an eye and having a longitudinal groove at one side and a pair of oppositely-inclined grooves at its opposite side, merging in said eye.

FRANOlS H. RicHARDs. Witnesses:

FRED. J. DOLE, F. N. CHASE. 

